Indian Textiles and Handlooms

My ultimate fashion dream is to one day have a collection of saris/ salwar kameez/ dupattas that covers traditional prints and weaves from regions all across India..:). The vibrant silks and the chikan kurtas in pastels, the intricate embroideries and the modest "not so perfect" hand prints, I want it all...I really havnt gotten far along but one day I will!

Here is just a glimpse of some of traditional weaves and prints of India..

Kalamkari: Hand painted on cotton generally the prints are very distinct featuring flowers and "bel" or creepers. The term Kalamkari comes from "kalam" or pen. The craft is native to Machilipatnam in Andhra Pradesh. I do have a beautiful black and white kalamkari print dupatta from Fab India that I got more than 7 years ago..:)

Bandhani: Also called "Bandhej" or "tie and dye" bandhani comes from "bandh" or to tie. The authentic Bandhani uses natural dyes. Comes from the "Kutch" region in Gujrat and also parts of Rajasthan. Married into a Gujarati family, I got some lovely bandhani sarees as a part of my trousseau! :)

Batik: Batik printing technique is popular all across South East Asia. Originated in Egypt to wrap mummies. It is a wax resist dyeing technique where linen is soaked in wax and scraped using a sharp tool. The technique traveled to India centuries back and became it's own! Major centers in India include Calcutta. I have in the past had a couple of bartik kurtas, currently don't have any. Now added to my shopping list! :)

Chanderi: Famous for it's light-weight quality and intricate designs, Chanderi Silk sarees are hand woven in Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh. I have a black and purple dupatta in chanderi, next on my wishlist is a saree! (Kareena Kapoor was recently spotted wearing a lovely Black Chanderi on the promotion tour for 3 idiots)

Paithani: Woven from very fine silk in Paithan near Aurangabad, Paithani saree is the quintessential wedding saree in maharashtra. Love the vibrant blues, reds and yellows that are very characterstic of a traditioal Paithani. Also Lookout for the "peacock" design if you want the real thing! And no I dont have any Paithani saree yet..:(

Kashida embroidery: "Kashida" itself means embroidery in Kashmir. The single stitch embroidery is done using very fine silk thread. Generally done on wool and silks, it is one of the most intricate embroidery styles that I have come across. When I was a little girl my dad got me a very pretty white pauncho with red embroidery from his Kashmir trip..loved it! Hopefully I will visit the beautiful Kashmir valley myself one day and indulge in some serious shopping! Those kashmiri shawls are gorgeous!!:)

Vegetable hand block prints: Hand block printing is a technique practiced all across India, each state has it's unique colors and patterns. The Hand Block Prints of Gujrat/ Rajasthan are called Ajrakh. Blues and Reds are the most characteristic colors of this print. I owned several cotton salwar kameezes with beautiful hand block prints (all brought from Sarojini Nagar market in Delhi) and these were actually my signature during architecture days.. :)

Patola: Patola comes from Patan in Gujrat. It includes a very intricate weaving process where threads of silk are carefully marked, tied and dyed separately and then woven together to create a beautiful piece of art!

I could recognize a patola print as early as I was eight, thanks to one of my mom's wedding sarees - patterns of green and blues woven into a deep pink/ purple base.. I still haven't come across any other saree so beautiful! Last time in India, I was shopping for a family wedding I kept asking for Patola and was always dismissed saying it was old fashioned! I know the heaps and heaps of embroidered chiffons and Georgettes can never match up to my mom's pink patola! :)

Kantha: Type of embroidery in bengal with decorative running stitch motifs. The traditional Kantha designs include flower patterns and animals. Recently got a turquoise blue saree with a Kantha print..:)

Chikankari: Shadow work embroidery from Luckhnow, done in white thread on muslin cloth. The classic all white chikan kurta and churidaar- Sheer elegance! :)

Zardozi: Very rich and elaborate designs hand embridered using gold and silver threads. Extremely popular in Bridal Wear these days. Main Centers are Bhopal and Lucknow.

With cheap mass produced garments and the influx of "branded wear" in Indian markets, many of these traditional crafts and techniques are on a decline. There are constant efforts being made by governments as well as several non profit organizations to revive these industries. I hope that these local handloom and textile industries continue to flourish and add color to our lives..:)